NYFW: Gordon shines, Wu fails at normcore

Jason Wu S/S '15; image source: nowfashion.com

With the start (and end) of Jason Wu's show we can say with a certainty that New York fashion week has begun. Unfortunately, Spring/Summer 2015 is not the designer's season.

I believe that the biggest issue Wu is facing is his lack of consistency. Not in terms of switching up themes or moods, which I fully support in a con-temporary designer, but in terms of style. Yes,
the American designer always maintains a cer-tain refined and polished look throughout - however, he often goes from rich to poor. Just last season he showed a very strong and lux-urious collection which played with panne velvet and fine silk and suddenly we get a harsh tran-sition into something basic, with very little color, only one print and not a variety of fabrics.

I did, however, enjoy those shiny draped pieces that at first glance look like lamѐ (a trend that is already proving to be the one to beat this sea-son), but are in fact made of almost couture-like beaded fabric. Factor in the two closing gowns, and that's all that stood-out from Wu today.

Young designer Wes Gordon was another story. He is lately proving to be the one to watch on the New York scene due to his light and relatable aes-thetic and the simplicity of his pieces - very little fuss or details, but enough innovation regarding shape and cut to make them special.

Wes Gordon S/S '15; image source: style.com

The collection is a breath of fresh air, partly because of the fluidity, and partly due to the positively sur-prising color-palette which introduced us to a beautiful shade of pastel green and burgundy lace. Of course ever present were the designer's lace-adorned dresses, this time only appearing three times, and some rather familiar chainmail dresses that I believe shouldn't have made a comeback in at least three more seasons, due to Stefano Pilati's not-so-distant departure at Saint Laurent.

For more photos of the collections go to Style.com and don't forget to follow me on Twitter!

Follow @mariododovski