Saturday, September 13, 2014

NYFW: A uniformed closing at Jacobs and Klein

Calvin Klein S/S '15; image source:
Maybe it has something to do with the fact that the end of New York fashion week this season also marked thirteen years since 9/11 (okay, it probably has a lot to do with it), but this Thursday designers showed us uniforms.

It first started with Ralph Lauren who presented safari-clad models parading in a juxtaposition of bold and earthy colors and four hours after that 10 o'clock presentation, Calvin Klein bravely dived into the navy. For Spring, Francisco Costa decided to ditch the knitwear that made his Fall show popular with the crowd and go back to what he used to do best - pure minimalism.

The show opened with super tall models dressed in layered navy outfits that came with an optical illusion. The girls weren't actually that tall, it was the slim and elongated silhouette that gave us the impression. To achieve that effect, Mr. Costa cre-ated body-conscious knee-length dresses were worn over skirts that reached the ankles and featured metal belts which gave models a higher waistline. And while successful, some of the outfits suffered because of the no-slit policy and created unwanted creases and false bellies, but the team has enough time to fix its mistake and alter the pieces before the collection hits the stores.

As per usual, Marc Jacobs was the one closing the week. Last season was the designer's first design-ing for his namesake label only in sixteen years, having parted ways with Louis Vuitton six months earlier. For Fall, he showed everyone that he is now again capable of creating an all-round collection that isn't short on design, fabrics or finishing touches but it seems like that was one lucky strike as things yesterday got back to 'normal'.
Marc Jacobs S/S '15; image source:
Everyone is already familiar with Mr. Jacobs' obsession with uniforms so his Spring show brought nothing new to the table. All fifty-five looks from the collection revolved around one with slight modifi-cations to the silhouette which was mostly oversize, sloppy and clinged around the waist with a satin sash. There was again embroidery but this time it was uninspired since it only featured half Pokemon-like eggs in navy blue, standard-issue green and khaki matching the actual clothes and besides puffy sleeves and balloon skirts we saw not much else.

The only exciting part? That bubble-gum pink house in the middle of the huge runway.

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