Haute Couture S/S '13 Review: Armani Privé

When it comes to Giorgio Armani and his shows, there is this interesting phenomenon I've noticed: his ready-to-wear shows are almost never themed, while his couture opens up a different magical world each season. The reason for that might be that safety-net I discussed few posts ago, to make sure his company makes profit. And while the RTW shows are always a snooze-fest, couture gets me very excited. This season was no exception, as Mr. Armani presented us a Middle East fairy tale like we've never seen before.

What did he try to do?

Whatever was on his mind - translated perfectly well on the runway. We saw a variety of silk gazar pieces in rich warm colors such as orange, yellow and red who were just a sweet addition to the sea of neutral-colored outfits. The models strut down the runway wearing queen-resembling headpieces that made them look like they were in charge. The standard Armani silhouettes were turned up a notch by being adorned with lots of embellishments and colorful prints splattered over rough silk. And for evening wear, we got the dose of glamour desperately needed around Awards season.

What would I change?

There's not much on the list: there were a few gray printed pieces towards the middle that ruined the glamorous feel of the collection. The wigs could have been less greasy looking - that was a rather distracting part. Armani definitely needs stronger casts.

What would I keep?

The voluminous oriental-printed gowns were to-die-for. A lot of sharp-looking tailored pantsuits that made the collection even stronger. The headpieces - including the makeup, were a definite high-point of the show and brought the couture drama. Evening wear was impeccable as always.

Favorite look?

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Haute Couture S/S '13 Review: Versace Atelier

Last season Donatella Versace made a smart move by continuing to show the Versace Atelier collections as an actual show rather than a presentation, which was her brother's ideal way of presenting clothes. This way their collections gather more publicity, and most importantly - more customers. However, by trying to attract more rich women - younger ones, judging by the clothes, she has turned the Versace house into a Barbie house - and that can never be a good thing. 

What did she try to do?

Two seasons ago, Donatella dug up her brother's archived sketches (no pun intended) from the 90s looking for inspiration, unfortunately reviving dated and rather ugly pieces that were once a hit. Baby pinks, shoulder pads, feathers and lots of bling are becoming Versace Atelier's trademark once again, however, this time without the supermodels. The S/S '13 show was no exception from this new look, as it featured all the elements mentioned, plus an addition of cheap fabrics and gold lamé. The only high-point? Kristen McMenamy and her platinum hair opening the show.

What would I change?

Cut down on the gold and use more decent looking fabrics - the shower curtain mullet gowns towards the end need to be burned. A less obvious use of the shoulder pads. Focus more on new contemporary shapes instead of trying to make the 90s silhouettes work, it's not working. A better cast.

What would I keep?

Let's make this a short paragraph - the only items worth keeping are some of the furs and the 3 column dresses in white, black and hot pink somewhere in the middle. Suits weren't bad either.

Favorite piece?

Don't forget to share your thoughts and ideas by leaving me a comment below!

Photo credit: style.com

Haute Couture S/S '13 Review: Christian Dior

Many have welcomed Raf Simons as the new 'king of fashion' ever since he took the main job at Christian Dior. However, by trying to establish a new look for the house by repeating himself season after season, he fell flat in my eyes. His minimalistic approach in the collections feels plain, lack-luster and sometimes - ugly. For his second couture show, Simons switched things up a bit by doing a romantic garden-themed collection that got everyone's attention. And while the show as a whole was beautiful, I found the collection disastrous.

What did he try to do?

Raf's plan this season was to present an utterly romantic flower-inspired collection that was supposed to be soft and light, while evoking a certain feel of elegance. He somewhat achieved that with the way the collection was presented - from the beautiful minimalistic white garden to the short wigs and diamond lips, but when looking at the photos all a person sees is stiffness. The shapes were very boxy, some were rather ill-fitting and the fabrics felt cheap and dated. Another problem was the sea of crafty plastic flowers that looked glued to the silk tops and balloon dresses.

What would I change?

The new 3-piece-suit is simply not working, unless he's aiming for 'the Russian mafia' to be Dior's new customers. Cheap looking embellishments have to go. Less color blocking - more harmony. A fresher take on the classic black suit is needed, we've already seen enough of it in every fabric. Burn the shoes, please.

What would I keep?

The hair and makeup were absolutely beautiful, loving the new direction in the beauty department. Very fond of the crystal embellished pieces - expensive and luxurious looking. The tailored dresses and corsets. Some of the gowns towards the end are absolutely breathtaking. 

Favorite piece?

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Photo credit: style.com

Collection Déjà Vus - How Much is Too Much?

With the blog's new look comes a new style - it is not enough for me to just review the newest collections or present you with outfit ideas or new collections. Given the freedom and power as a blogger, I feel the need to express my opinion on problems concerning fashion that may be small to the "big" world - but matter a lot to ours.

The Big Problem - When did it Actually Start?

We are all familiar with the word 'recession' and its impact on the world economy, and more importantly - on fashion. Ever since 2008, all we've been hearing about is cutting expenses, minimalism and plain presentations. Another association that comes to mind when someone mentions the word 'recession' is the word, safe. Statistics show that since the beginning of the recession, repetitive collections have been selling like hot cakes, while risk-takers and fashion forward designers have been classified as economic failures. 

Given this, more and more designers have been jumping on the 'repetition' band wagon, desperately trying to save their companies and maximize their profits. However, while this may keep the world of fashion financially stable, what has happened to creativity?

A Growing Trend - Whose Fault is it?

Imagine a bad situation that has happened to you in life. A failed relationship, a bad date, a ruined dress. We always try to blame someone for our misfortune. And while that is a bad approach.. almost all the time, I have to point the finger to the main duo responsible for this "trend" - Dolce&Gabbana. Starting with their S/S 2010 collection back in 2009, the designers have given the word 'repetitive' a whole new meaning. Below is a not-so-complete retrospective of their work until that season (my personal favorites). What you can clearly see is the creativity behind those masterpieces, their ability to explore new themes and start groundbreaking trends. 

From left: F/W '07, S/S '08, F/W '08, S/S '09, F/W '09

What you see in the photo below is variations of the same Sicilian theme over and over again. For me, the only way to distinguish those collections is by giving them different names such as Dolce&Musicana for F/W 2011, or Dolce&Banana for the fruit/vegetable inspired S/S 2012 one. 

From left: S/S '10, F/W '10, F/W '11, S/S '12, S/S '13

The Blind Side - Who Followed?

Following in Dolce&Gabbana's footsteps, Valentino's new duo started establishing the modern Valentino girl. Dressed in nude and covered with lace and studs, she continues to haunt their shows with minor changes to this day. Unfortunately that wasn't all. Red carpet's favorite designer, Elie Saab ditched his themed shows as well, showing 5 different dresses in every color imaginable, season after season. Also let's not forget to add Sarah Burton's McQueen, Balmain - under any creative director, Pucci and Giambattista Valli as very important additions to that list. What's scary: the list is just getting bigger.

Standard beauty: Valentino S/S '11, Balmain S/S '12 , Pucci F/W '10

Important Question: Who is Letting this Happen?

Okay, we all know that fashion is a business, and business is all about money and so on. It is normal for owners of big luxury groups like LVMH and PPR to push their designers to 'be safe' and create wearable items season after season. However, why would anyone want to look the same every season? Shouldn't I, as a customer, want different themes from different designers? That way I would spend more, as I want to own at least one piece from every iconic collection. Very logical. But no, apparently that is not how things work in our fashion world. Apparently, now, what's 'in' is to drool over the same items again and again. Which brings me to this question: What idiot buys the same Dolce&Gabbana lace dress for the rest of their life? First world problems.

Exactly how many black lace dresses does a woman need? Dolce&Gabbana S/S '10 - F/W '12

Moment of Truth - How Can We Solve this?

As an individual, not me - nor you (unless you're Anna Wintour) can do much about it. However, you know what they say - think globally, act locally! The one thing that everyone can do is re-inspect their values. Instead of screaming 'Oh my God, I love that studded Valentino clutch!' that I have seen 10 times before, I would praise young designers like Alexander Wang or Christopher Kane who are trying to make a statement in this world while entertaining us. Let's also not forget the absolute legends - what's left of them after McQueen and Galliano anyway, Miuccia Prada and Marc Jacobs who bring new items to the table season after season. That is the talent we need to acknowledge. For once, forget about the pretty dresses and platform shoes and look into the future - is women wearing Dolce&Gabbana what you really wish to see?

Don't forget to share your thoughts and ideas by leaving me a comment below!

Photo credit: style.com